An Open Road

In Closing

2007-08-15T12:29:00.001+07:00

Clearly I'm not much of a blogger. But for anyone who happens to stop by here, I'll post this one closing entry. Yesterday I left Cambodia for good. I cried on Monday night, and off and on yesterday morning until I arrived in Bangkok. I never expected it to be that difficult. As I reintegrate into life in the US, I think the achievements of the past year will solidify in my mind. I left wanting to change the country and was afraid that I would leaving without accomplishing that goal. In a sense I did. It really wasn't until we arrived at the airport and I saw the impact my leaving would have on the family I now call my own that I really understood the depth of my work in Cambodia. I think the days, weeks, months, and even years to come will clarify it even more.

Reflection from Europe

2007-05-29T22:52:00.001+07:00

As I've been parading around Europe spending excessively despite trying to save, my parents have been delving deeper and deeper into Burma - a country largely untouched by tourism and western influence of the 21st century. I've been traveling with my good friend Brandy Ma. Before we met up in Madrid, I knew she would be a great travel partner. She left this morning, and I'm only beginning to grasp just what a joy it was to travel with her. She never complains, knows when silence is the best conversation, and is persistently strong in spirit. From reading what my dad has written about Mom in their travels, the two women are very similar. Fortunately for me, I too will get the chance to explore the third world with a great traveler at my side when Brandy comes to Cambodia.

This trip has been really great for me. I was a little skeptical how much I would get out of it, as I had already been to all the places we saw. Traveling with Brandy (who is an avid museum fan and advocate of the touristy sights), it was like seeing completely different cities from what I saw before. Now I've seen both the cafés in the back streets of Paris as well as the Mona Lisa at the Louvre. I've been able to do a lot of reflection (nothing new for me, but always satisfying) and some solidifying of beliefs and goals. Not bad for three weeks' vacation.

Tomorrow I leave for Bangkok, where I'll meet with my parents (who arrive a day before I do). They're coming from Burma, land of the oppressed, and I'm coming from Amsterdam, one of the most liberal places in the world. To meet again in Bangkok. Then back to Cambodia. Bittersweet return.

Madrid Again

2007-05-13T20:23:00.001+07:00

I'll write more detailed entries later, but Spain is everything I remembered and loved. I got a haircut at the same place I went last year for my (in)famous haircut. The guy who cut it before wasn't there anymore, but I got another good haircut. More importantly, it was just nice being back in a familiar place. I remember my way around the city very well. The hostel was nice (and in the perfect location...not by coincidence). Then I met Brandy, and we had a great day talking and wandering around the city on foot. We caught the first metro of the morning to the airport, and now I'm writing from Rome. We're having a spectacular time everywhere we are, and that doesn't look like it's going to change anytime soon. Ciao for now!

Bangkok Again

2007-05-10T10:04:00.001+07:00

I find myself in Bangkok again. This time I am en route to Europe, where I'll meet my friend Brandy, with whom I'll be traveling for three weeks. I'm staying here with some friends, and last night I slept better than I have ever slept in Cambodia. AC makes a huge difference. Anyway, I leave tonight and will arrive at 6am in Amsterdam, where I will connect to Madrid. Next post will be from Madrid (probably prior to meeting Brandy).

Holidays

2007-05-08T13:02:00.000+07:00

Well after a brief spurt of frequent updates, I’ve fallen into a lapse again. It seems to be the way of things when living abroad rather than actually traveling. The good news is that I’ll be traveling on holiday in Europe for the next four weeks, so I’ll be posting frequently.

An Open Letter

2007-04-27T16:43:00.001+07:00

Brandi,

It is with disappointment but not surprise that I must congratulate you in absentia of your graduation. It seems that over the past four years, we have been apart more than we have been together, yet that physical separation has not deterred us from deepening our friendship. We have helped each other grow, watched each other grow, and even in each other's absence, we have managed to grow together. That's quite an accomplishment.

But this isn't about me right now. You're about to receive the paper that you've worked so hard for these past years. Frankly, that paper doesn't mean anything to me. When I see you, I don't see a Rice graduate with lots of honors. I see Brandi Elizabeth Braud. My Brandi Elizabeth Braud. The friend I brag about more than any other; the friend with whom I spent a good portion of the first months of knowing each other "not talking;" the friend who will play piano for me to sing Disney songs in the basement in the middle of the night, not to mention the friend who works harder than any other, takes more shit from her boss than any other, smiles more sweetly than any other, and is more stubborn and defiant than any other except myself. If I could attend your commencement, that is who I would see walking across the stage, no matter what they attach to your name.

I won't go into too much of the sappy "end of one thing beginning of the next" graduation hullabaloo. I just want to talk about you. You, Brandi Braud, will receive countless awards for your achievements. You've already begun. And you will earn far more than you receive. But that's not why you do it. You have (my favorite word) passion. I see it in your eyes when I talk to you, hear it in your voice when I speak to you, and even feel it when we're just chatting online. Passion drives you, and as long as you have that, no obstacle will ever be too great for you. I personally cannot wait to see what you will accomplish.

Be humble. Be patient. You will realize all of your dreams, and that's not a prediction I make lightly. But in order to do that, you have to be humble. See people for what they offer, and you will reap the benefits of their offerings. Be patient with people who do not understand you; there will be many. You will find that if you give people more chances, you'll win allies wherever you go. You can probably win most of your battles single-handedly, but the journey is a lot more fun if you don't have to.

That's all I have to say. You are fantastic person, a brilliant student, an inspiring thinker, a stalwart supporter, a stellar (albeit complicated) fiancée (!), and one hell of a friend. What's one more ceremony? None of what I have said will change by your walking across that stage; it's all the hours and days spent working up to that moment. I was going to close with a witty quote apropos of the moment, but I think I'd rather say it in my own words: The world has never before seen someone like you. Let this be your introduction.

Sincerely, with love, your friend and greatest fan,

David

The New Year

2007-04-19T08:18:00.000+07:00

The rains of this New Year have begun.

Last weekend was the Cambodian (and Thai) New Year’s celebration. I spent a day at Tonle Bati (a lake about an hour outside Phnom Penh) with Mony and her family. Lots of food, lots of swimming, and lots of fun. I used to be wary of swimming here in Cambodia, but during the hot season, which is right now, nothing feels better than jumping into cool (if murky) water to escape the heat of the day.

The following day, we went to the town where Mony’s father grew up. It’s about an hour outside the city, too, but this one is an unpaved road the entire way. It’s really nice to get out into the countryside – quieter, cleaner, and generally peaceful. Cambodia really is a beautiful place as soon as you step outside Phnom Penh. And even in this city, you can find beauty, but you just have to look harder. In this town (which is probably more appropriately termed a village), we ate more and swam more. This time, we swam in the river Tonle Bassac. Lots of sun and lots of fun.

The day after that, I spent the day at with my birth parents at their house in a province about two hours’ drive outside the city. I spent a good deal of time talking with Pa about the political and social problems in Cambodia, which I thoroughly absorbed and noted. We had a feast for lunch (notice a pattern?) and then relaxed for the afternoon. I helped Kayleen, my niece, with math, and then I read stories to her.

Kayleen makes me simultaneously very happy and very sad. She is very bright. Her inquisitive eyes are constantly taking in everything around her, and when she asks questions, which she does frequently, she hears the answer and doesn’t quickly forget. She will turn 10 at the end of this year, which makes her a few months younger than Mony. But unlike Mony, Kayleen is struggling with basic math, English, and even reading and writing in Khmer. What she lacks is formal education. Her English is perfect American English, and her Khmer is that of a native speaker – she is unique in that sense. While Mony is studying physics, chemistry, geometry, and algebra, I am making timed math tests for Kayleen to improve her knowledge of basic addition. Mony talks about dependent noun clauses and the conditional tense of verbs, while Kayleen was stumped when I asked her to point out an adjective in a simple sentence. It’s upsetting to me to watch someone as smart as Kayleen fumble through lost opportunity after lost opportunity. I asked her what she wants to be, and she said she wanted to be a famous singer. Little girl, you could be so much more than that.

The first rains of the New Year started tonight, shortly before I began this entry. My AC is off, and my windows are all open. I love the rain, and this is a fantastic beginning to a new year. I went outside and sat for a while to just listen to the rain falling against the metal roof covering my balcony. The air is fresh and new and clean – just how a new year should begin.

Phnom Penh at Night

2007-04-13T09:51:00.000+07:00

Yesterday after work, I went with some friends to play tennis at the Olympic Stadium. One friend (Andrea) plays piano with me at the Art Café, and the others are her friends (Elijah and Sina). Andrea is from Ohio and teaches at a Bible school here. I’m not exactly sure what Elijah and Sina do, but I think they may work at the same school. Anyway, we met at to play tennis at 6, and it gets dark around 6:30. The lights didn’t come on, and we didn’t know how to turn them on, so we ended up playing in the dark most of the time, which wasn’t too much worse than playing in the daylight. After “tennis” we went to get something to eat.

We ended up at a Chinese dumpling place that Andrea and Elijah had been to once before. Only this time, they were out of dumplings. You would think that in the heart of Phnom Penh, a Khmer (Sina) and two people who speak Khmer fluently (both Andrea and Elijah have been here for almost three years) could get by anywhere. You would be wrong. This restaurant was completely Chinese, and only the ice girl spoke any Khmer. We managed to order by asking whether they had [insert generic food, like “fried vegetables”] and then waiting for someone to run to the kitchen and check. Lather, rinse, repeat five or six times until we got three dishes (two of which were good).

We had a nice night. I was on the back of Andrea’s motorcycle (which always gets me funny looks – an apparently Cambodian guy behind a white girl is unheard of). I love riding on a motorcycle through the streets of Phnom Penh around 8pm. The traffic is a little thinner, but the city feels like an aspiring Hong Kong. Exhaust bites every sense – it burns your eyes and drowns your nostrils. You can’t really talk over the din of old cars and motorcycles, but at the same time, I always feel so peaceful. Dodging motorcycles, we ride through the cool air that is only available at night during this time of year, under a canopy of neon lights. I know I should feel anxious, especially since my life is in the hands of whoever is driving the motorcycle I’m on, as well as those of everyone around me who may or may not decide not to hit us. But anxiety is the last thing on my mind. I love it.

A Moral Spirit

2007-04-12T08:53:00.000+07:00

Today one of my Khmer coworkers called me and asked for some translation help. She asked if it made sense to say “moral spirit.” I doubted that she was writing anything deeply philosophical, so I went to her office to try to figure out what she was trying to say. Three people tried to explain it to me, and with the description of “where people go who are sick (pointing to head) every day,” I figured it out: a psychiatric ward. A “moral spirit” hospital sounds like a nicer place than a psychiatric ward. If I’m ever “sick every day,” then I’d definitely want to go there.

Later, when I was helping Mony with her English, we came across the following multiple choice fill-in-the-blank: “I’m sorry, but I ___________ in traffic.” The choices were (a) got carried away, (b) got stuck, (c) let my imagination run away with me. I laughed out loud when I read those (Mony had incorrectly chosen c). I tried to explain why it was so funny, but I couldn’t find the words. How do you explain the humor in “I’m sorry, but I got carried away in traffic,” much less “I’m sorry, but I let my imagination run away with me in traffic?”

Language is a beautiful thing. I was trying to explain what “should” means, and the best I could do was that it implies that one thing is better than its alternative. Even for someone who prides himself in being adept at manipulating words, I frequently find myself inadequately equipped to explain some of the things that I take for granted among my English-speaking friends in the US.

A New Wind

2007-04-11T08:44:00.000+07:00

I have stumbled upon a sense of intellectual curiosity and stimulation that I have not felt since I first arrived in Cambodia. I spent a good part of the day scouring the internet for stimulating reads – fiction, news articles, editorials, book reviews, and journal articles, and I am working my way through those with a passion I haven’t felt in a long time. It feels really good.

I can’t pinpoint what started this. Perhaps it was a discovery of Google’s “Reader,” which allows you to “subscribe” to sites that offer the feature, and with that subscription you receive headlines every time the site updates. But maybe it was something else. Maybe it was the story I wrote last weekend, with which I am fairly displeased. Perhaps it was talking with a writer I admire and gaining some inspiration and encouragement. It could be simply that I got bored.

I’m looking to improve my writing, and what better way than by reading (and consequently, writing) more. New ideas to write about and new ways to write about them. I’m not promising any Pulitzer writing anytime soon, but the path of writing suddenly looks much clearer. Who knows, it might even mean more frequent blog updates…

In Memoriam

2007-04-09T08:45:00.000+07:00

Today marks five years after Eric and Jamie died, and it’s the first year that I am not paying a visit to the site where Eric’s ashes are buried. It’s funny how much he lives on in my life, though. Of the hundreds of karaoke songs that Mony’s family has, I know about three: Desperado, Unchained Melody, and Morning Has Broken. The last of these three was Eric’s favorite hymn, and Mony has committed the song to memory since I like it so much. She doesn’t know the story behind it, but I think that’s ok.

Yesterday I sang “Christ the Lord is Risen Today” because it was Easter (despite my abandonment of pretty much all religious ties). I spent most of the day either at my house writing or at Mony’s house eating and just hanging out with her family. I’ve been interacting with her aunt (who is about a year older than I) a lot more than I did at first. Her English is limited to “yes,” “no,” “sleep,” “hello,” “goodbye,” and “Oh my God,” and my Khmer isn’t a whole lot better. But we seem to communicate really well. I’ve found that a common language is only a small part of communicating with someone. So often I’ve found people with whom I have a connection despite difficulties in expressing ourselves in language.

Mony’s aunt (whose name I recently found out is Ta) is one of those people. Not only is she beautiful, but she has a beautiful personality. I watch her laugh frequently and with sincerity. She can stop a young child’s crying and takes care of Mony’s grandparents. She works tremendously hard, but she never seems too busy to pause and smile at me or to play for a minute with Mony or her younger sister. And in the evenings she spends quite a bit of time with Mony, Sophea (Mony’s sister), and me, as Mony’s parents watch. We have a lot of fun together. I can only imagine what it would be like if we spoke a common language. I’m trying. I really am, but language has fallen behind writing and making friends in my priority list.

An Early Rain

2007-03-20T09:39:00.001+07:00

It started raining last night here in Phnom Penh. I was at dinner at Mony’s house when it began, first a steady tapping on the metal roof, then harder and harder. I went outside to watch, but it was dark, so I could only smell and hear it. Mony told me that during monsoon season, it rains much harder than that, and every day. Apparently it rained during the night, too, but I was exhausted and slept through it. The evidence in the morning was flooded streets and the brisk air. It’s still drizzling now that I’m at work.

I love the rain. From my house, or from Mony’s, I’ll be able to hear it pattering on the metal roof – the perfect lullaby and gently soothing. It cools the oppressive heat and drowns the dust in the air. From what people tell me, this rain is unusual for Cambodia in March. Ignoring the possible cause of global warming, I’ll enjoy the short respite from the heat of Phnom Penh and watch the clouds drench this city, refreshing it and renewing it.

(Another) Return to Cambodia

2007-02-09T09:46:00.001+07:00

My flight from Paris to Bangkok was a gentle step down from flying business class. I was economy, but the seat next to me was empty, and in the aisle seat was a nice Brazilian man going to Vientiane for business. Nothing about the flight was remarkably good or bad (which I suppose is a good thing overall). We arrived in Bangkok ahead of schedule, and instead of joining the masses of people in line at immigration, I went to the next section of immigration (note the poor design of the Bangkok airport) where there was absolutely no one and at least six officers doing nothing. I went through with no trouble and went to get my baggage, passing along the way, at least two 747s of people waiting in line at immigration. I got my bags (after the luggage got stuck coming out for a good fifteen minutes, siren and all, before someone came to fix it) and caught a taxi.

After showering and starting the laundry, I grabbed my viola to meet a friend of a friend of a friend who plays piano, as we had arranged to read some sonatas for viola and piano. We played for almost three hours, and it was really fun (even though both of us were quite out of practice). Then I went home to an unpleasant surprise: I had washed my passport.

It was in decent condition, albeit faded, wrinkled, and curled up. I put it under my suitcase and kicked myself for leaving it in my pocket. My beautiful passport, with its new page extensions! Anyway, the next morning I checked it, and it was flatter and potentially usable. After doing nothing much during the day, I went to the airport to fly back to Phnom Penh. After waiting in a barely-moving but short line, I was told at check-in girl that the flight was already an hour behind. I checked my stuff and proceeded to the gate anyway. Where else was I going to go?

At immigration (where there were absolutely no lines), I presented my passport to the girl on duty, and she looked at it, slightly amused and a little wary. After verifying that it was indeed my picture and that it wasn't a fake, she looked at my departure form. I had filled out a new one, as the original was mostly destroyed in the washer. She asked if I had the old one, so I pulled out some barely legible shreds of paper that I managed to salvage. She started laughing and showed them to a coworker. She ushered me through to the supervisor, who looked with similar amusement and stamped my passport and allowed me through.

To make a really long wait shorter on paper, I essentially waited for over three hours, as two flights scheduled after mine departed before mine, from the same gate. Two hours later than scheduled, then we boarded and left. I amused the two Germans next to me on the flight by ravenously eating every bland and mediocre item of food from my meal, while one of the Germans drank only a glass of red wine and water. We arrived in Phnom Penh, and I managed to amuse another immigration officer with my passport. After declaring that I "put it in pocket and wash clothes," he let me through on the promise that I would get a new passport soon. I got my bags and caught a taxi home. By then it was about 10:30.

I was exhausted and went to sleep almost immediately after unpacking, only to wake up the next morning at 7:06, before my alarm. Welcome back to Cambodia.

Barcelona for 3 Days

2007-02-02T15:57:00.001+07:00

I am in Barcelona again, staying with the chef I met over the summer. Quite a bit has changed since I was here last, but overall, it's the same place I remembered. I went to some of my favorite places, including the café that serves espresso in a crucible-like cup. Jacqueline changed jobs and now works from 8:00am until 4:00pm at a restaurant in this suburb. Quite a drastic change from her two jobs in Barcelona, requiring a 14 or 16 hour day, plus an hour commute each direction. I must say, she looks far better. She's had time to take care of her son and the house, and she now has a boyfriend (whom I actually met this summer before he was her boyfriend). She seems better-rested and much happier. What a wonderful change to see!

Of course, I had to do my shopping here. I did all of it at Zara and got everything I was looking for except shoes (need some black shoes to replace mine, which are falling apart). I got a nice brown blazer, a white shirt with pink stripes, a brown going-out shirt, and two belts – all for 60€. There are some Kenneth Cole shoes that I really like, but I think I'll have to wait until Thailand to get those, since the stores here don't seem to carry KC.

I think my time here is just perfect. Back to Paris tomorrow evening. I leave for the airport around 2:00pm tomorrow, which gave me an afternoon, a full day, and a morning here in Barcelona. It was really great to get back and see Jacqueline changed for the better and the city pretty much unchanged. I could see myself living here (maybe not in Barcelona, but in Europe in general). The weather is great, since I love the cold, the people are fun to be around, and there's so much to do.

So I'll be back in Asia shortly. I'm looking forward to it. These trips give me a greater sense of what I'm doing there, and now I'm there for a long haul (no trips planned…probably until April). Time to crack down, learn the language, and get these hospital volunteers in order.

Paris

2007-01-29T17:51:00.001+07:00

When I passed through Paris this summer, I didn’t think I would be back so soon. Here I am, and it’s cold – a welcome change from Cambodia and Thailand. However, I have serious qualms about writing about Paris in my “Year in Cambodia” blog. Perhaps I’ll wait until I’m back in Cambodia to write my updates. I am writing here, though. Maybe I’ll put it up somewhere else.

Mony

2007-01-22T11:29:00.001+07:00

Mony lives two houses away from me. Her grandmother calls me “jao,” which is Khmer for grandchild. After my parents left, Mony’s family began making food for me – breakfast and dinner, every day. I go at eight o’clock each morning before the car comes to take me to work, and Mony’s mother makes me rice with pork, my favorite Asian breakfast. During breakfast, Mony and I talk a little. She has already had one class by that time, while I have only just woken up. She tells me, beginning each time with “Yes, and…” about her studies, the other students, and her family. I listen carefully, repeating key words to indicate my understanding, and asking critical questions to keep the conversation afloat.

She likes to give examples. She will begin with her “Yes, and…” and then provide some short information about her class, followed by “Example:…” and a long example of how her statement is true. When I first started going to her house, we did not say much, but now that it has been a week, she has plenty to say. She speaks very well, and I have only taught her a few words, like algebra, geometry, protractor, and jealous.

I quickly learned that she goes to school for about seven hours each day, and the rest of the time she spends eating or studying. That hardly leaves us with much to talk about, but we have thus far always had a school-related topic to discuss. She has explained the school system and all her classes, and recently has been talking about her classmates, all of whom are much older than she (she is only nine). She has said many times, “I have many enemies,” which she explained is because she is the best student in the class, but also the youngest. Enemy is a strong word, though, and I hope that it is not the appropriate one. After I taught her the word “jealous,” it has come up many times in reference to the other students’ feelings toward her.

I think I have met Mony’s entire family: two grandparents, two parents, one aunt (first-cousin, once removed? niece of grandmother), two uncles, and a younger sister. Mony’s grandfather runs a radio station but is sick, so he only goes every so often. Her grandmother sells drinks and small items from a stand in front of their house. Her mother works inside the house, cooking and cleaning mostly. Her father works at the Cambodiana Hotel, a huge 4-star hotel, in the restaurant there. I’m not sure about one of her uncles, but the other one is a “famous singer and actor,” whose name is also David. This “famous” actor looks nothing like the rest of his family and is actually very handsome. Mony tells me that he has toured (my word) in Canada, Australia, and France about five years ago. He doesn’t speak English of French, though. When I asked her why he came back, she said that “many girls fell in love with him, and he didn’t like that.” I don’t know why that would be any different here in Cambodia.

For each meal, I arrive, and whoever is in front of the house (usually Mony’s mother, cooking) ushers me inside, where I find a dimly lit living area with four tables. One table is set with a tablecloth and runner, two places set with complete and arranged silverware, glasses, coffee/tea cups and saucers, and elaborately folded cloth napkins (which are folded differently for each meal – I think I’ve counted about eight different ways). I take my seat at one place, and someone summons Mony, who sits opposite me.

This is a very sophisticated family, and one can see that almost immediately. The grandmother looks elegant and composed, the grandfather pensive and observant. And one more thing I noticed is that they all have very good teeth.

Going and Coming Back

2007-01-15T11:29:00.001+07:00

Once again, I find myself sitting in the Bangkok airport, this time on my way back to Phnom Penh. It's very early in the morning, and (as is usual for me) I did everything ahead of schedule. I got up at 4 and was out of the house by 5, getting me to the airport by 5:30 for my flight that departs at 7:40. Oh well…what's an extra thirty minutes of sleep?

I have a lot more to look forward to going back to Cambodia. I have several things to do this week at work, and I think Linda is going to come with me some days and teach me Khmer (as well as helping me translate). Should be nice to have her around. It's amazing what a difference having people to interact with makes. And of course, the two meals a day don't hurt the outlook either. I may be getting a refrigerator this week, which would be really exciting. Although now, I don't really need one for anything except water. But cold drinking water would be a nice little luxury to have.

I'm in Phnom Penh for all of a week, and then back to Bangkok and then on to France. I'm really excited. Sometimes I wonder if I'm neglecting the real experience of "being in Cambodia for a year," and after much thought, I decided not. I may not be living the experience I expected, but is that really so bad? I feel that I'm accomplishing two primary goals right now, and both are goals that have been and will be with me for my entire life: enjoying myself and learning something. Just by being in this part of the world, essentially on my own (but not by myself anymore – note the subtle difference) is a great challenge for me. Leaving the country every few weeks doesn't remove that challenge. Could I stay in Cambodia for a month without leaving? Maybe. Do I have to? No.

I love traveling, and the more I do, the more I want. I cannot stand still, even in a foreign place. I'm sure I'll eventually settle down some, but right now, I'm twenty-one with a restless spirit.

A Nice Family

2007-01-10T15:15:00.001+07:00

I'm back in Phnom Penh. I went from the airport to the hospital, and resumed my everyday life. Things are looking better here. There's more for me to do, and I like that. On the way home, the driver expressed his deep dissatisfaction with the Cambodian government regime. I think it's a sentiment that everyone feels yet few voice. Everyone talks about how horrible the Pol Pot regime is, but it's much easier to criticize someone who can no longer persecute you.

When I arrived home, my neighbors (two houses down) waved to me. My parents had befriended them, and they offered to prepare meals for me. I went over and talked with them. They have a really interesting story. Eight people live in their house: two grandparents, three children, a son-in-law, and two grandchildren (as I can figure). They prepared a REALLY nice meal for me, and one of the granddaughters (who is nine) ate with me. They wouldn't let me pay; the grandmother said that I can be like a part of their family. At one point, she picked up my hand and scrutinized the palm. Then she said something, which her husband translated "Anything you want to do, you will do. Anywhere you want to go, you will go. No one can stop you." Talk about a great fortune!

The grandfather was certified in police law and spoke fluent French before the Pol Pot regime. Somehow, he and his wife survived, and now he operates a radio station. He taught himself English (and speaks beautifully), and seems to be in remarkably good shape.

This morning at breakfast it was the same. They fixed a delicious breakfast (rice and pork) before I left for work. That really improves my condition here.

Back to Bangkok

2007-01-08T12:05:00.000+07:00

New Zealand was absolutely fantastic. Beautiful scenery, wonderful weather, friendly people, and quite relaxing. It was the perfect getaway, and my only regret is that it wasn't long enough. But I will most certainly go back. The rolling hills, immense (inactive) volcanoes, pastures full of sheep and cows, beautiful rivers, clear ocean – everything in only five days and mere miles apart. Truly a spectacular experience.

And as if things could possibly get better, I am sitting in first class on Thai Airways eating caviar and drinking Dom Perignon champagne. I am one of two passengers in first class, and Stéphane is the other. It's absolutely amazing.

I'll post pictures as soon as I get back to Thailand.

A New Year

2007-01-01T14:36:00.000+07:00

I am sitting in the first/business class lounge for Thai Airways at the Bangkok airport on New Year's Day, bound for Auckland, New Zealand. I've been at the airport since about 7:30 this morning (it's now almost 2:30pm) because I saw my parents off to Hong Kong. Unfortunately, I couldn't check in for my flight 12 hours in advance (security only allows 6 hours ahead), so I am only now arriving at the lounge. I anticipated having WiFi in the airport, but I found out that it's no longer free. So I sat in the middle of a huge thoroughfare and listened to music and read about free will (Freedom Evolves, Daniel Dennett). As I said, I'm now in a really nice lounge and will be here for about 5 more hours.

My parents' visit was really nice. We had a great time together, and they helped me fix up a few of the issues I was dealing with (arranged a refrigerator and got me a few things I needed). It's really great to be able to spend Christmas with family. Even though we didn't have a tree or any official presents, it was just nice to be together.

This begins a new phase in my writing! It's my goal to write at least twice a week, starting today. It's a tough week to start because I'll be in New Zealand for the week, but I'll try to post my second one in a timely manner. Also, you can look forward to more pictures. I've never made New Year's resolutions, but it's nice to have a chance to start new.

Merry Christmas from Saigon

2006-12-25T07:44:00.000+07:00

It's Christmas morning in Saigon. Last night we were treated a LOT of drunken carolers outside our window until about 2am (in the small street that happens to have several bars all together...lucky us). Anyway, it's really nice to have my family here right now. I know I've been remiss in my postings, but that's what New Year's resolutions are for, right? Anyway, I posted some pictures from Siem Reap. You can find them here. Since I haven't given you much to read, here's a link to my dad's travelogue. Thanks for following. I hope everyone has a great holiday season.

A Summary Update

2006-12-07T15:48:00.000+07:00

The music festival has come and gone, and as I write this today, my parents are flying over the Pacific Ocean from LA. Sorry I haven't been writing on here much. I've been working on some short stories, so much of my writing energy has been going into those. The music festival went very well, and I'm really excited about the prospect of actually coaching the resident Cambodian quartet.

My parents are bringing my viola and my tennis racquets, so my day-to-day life activities may change shortly. Work is going well – I observed a PA working in telemedicine today. Essentially, a nurse takes pictures and sees patients out in provinces and sends them to him and a team of doctors internationally, and they assess the treatment the nurse provided. The PA that I observed actually goes out into the field twice a month, but the rest of the time he works from the hospital here.

Yesterday was Gerlinda's birthday (one of my coworkers). We went to the Intercontinental Hotel, to hear our favorite band, and a lot of the people from work were there to celebrate. The aforementioned PA and I even sang a song for her (you won't find me behind a microphone very often). So that was a fun evening.

I'm flying to Bangkok on Saturday morning, so the next time I update, I'll probably be with my parents. I'll try to get some more and better writing up soon, too.

Holidays

2006-11-27T09:54:00.000+07:00

Holidays in foreign places are always an interesting concept, especially in places that don't really celebrate them. Thanksgiving in Cambodia, for example. Given that Thanksgiving is a purely American holiday, no one in Cambodia even considers it. There's not really any such things as "turkey" here, much less "cranberries," "stuffing," "pecan pie," or my grandmother's exquisite Jello salad. Of course, the food isn't what makes Thanksgiving, but it's an important part. Coupled with the fact that it doesn't really get cold here (despite the increased number of locals wearing long sleeves and jackets), Thanksgiving really just doesn't exist. Besides, why would Cambodians give thanks for a peace between Pilgrims and Native Americans? Of course it's silly to think that Cambodians would celebrate the American holiday, but even as an American (albeit a sort of bland one), I almost forgot about the occasion.

Christmas isn't quite the same. People here celebrate it as a secular holiday. Christmas trees and lights and presents are fun no matter what your belief, and although there's absolutely no chance of a white Christmas, the idea is nice. Still, you won't have entire families gathering around a nice fireplace and eating a big meal or opening presents unless you peek into the house of a family of expatriates. Even then, it's just not the same. It still won't be cold; even in Dallas, you usually have to wear a jacket around Christmas.

In other news, I met last night with the director of the NGO sponsoring the classical music festival. He and I both were enthusiastic about meeting each other, and this morning I attended the orchestra concert. It was great to hold a viola in my hands again. Although the orchestra is really just a string octet plus two clarinets and two flutes, it was fun to get back into an orchestral setting. Anton (the director) has actually requested that I participate in the concert with the orchestra. So I have to go find a tux. The other violist in the group actually had a spare viola, and he loaned it to me, not only for the rehearsal, but to take home as well. Although I'm hesitant to practice too much here at home, it's really nice to have. Not a great instrument, but it has four strings and a bow, and I have no room to be picky.

Earlier this week I went out with one of the doctors from the hospital, Gerlinda. We went to dinner at a Chinese restaurant and had some great talking, and then we went to a "T & Coffee Shop" (cute, I know) to hear the new Filipino band performing. I was skeptical when they donned cowboy hats (that clearly weren't from Texas) but completely forgot that they were Filipino when the man started singing. Apparently Filipino entertainers are remarkable imitators, and this guy could twang like you wouldn't believe. I'm sure he didn't talk that way, but he sure could sing. Occasionally he made a mistake that indicated he was just imitating sounds (not like a wording mistake – the wrong phoneme in a simple word), but still, it was quite impressive. The girl was less impressive, as her voice was very muffled through the speakers, but fortunately, the man sang most of the songs. Anyway, it was a very nice evening, and who would have thought I would be sitting outside a café in Phnom Penh, Cambodia listening to a live band perform country music? It would be a lie to say it felt like home, but it was a nice touch.

Classical Music

2006-11-24T10:38:00.000+07:00

I miss playing the viola. It was a part of my life for over thirteen years, and now it's halfway around the world. I find myself listening to more and more classical music on my computer, to my favorite quartets and symphonies, reminiscing. There's almost a complete lack of classical music here. In fact, Cambodian music is basically a cheap rip-off of American hiphop. These singers take American songs (like "My Hump" or "Jump Around") and put their own words to it, with exactly the same rhythm, beat, and melody. It's really weird, actually. I wouldn't really call that making music. When a language is almost entirely mono and disyllabic, it's not too hard to put new words to a song someone else wrote. I'm not surprised that no one listens to classical music, but being a foreigner, I really miss its presence.

You can imagine my surprise at seeing a poster on the street for an International Music Festival. A THIRD one, at that. I looked it up and found that I did indeed see what I thought. There is a German NGO here that promotes classical music, and they sponsor this music festival. There will be concerts every night from December 2-6, and I plan to attend all of them. I also contacted the NGO and will speak with them soon about finding an ensemble (hopefully). Although I don't have my viola here with me, I'm sure I could figure out something.

I'm really excited about that. I feel fairly unproductive here – days seem shorter, and I don't seem to be doing much outside of work. Hopefully that will change. I'm also looking for a gym to correct my now-sedentary lifestyle (not to be confused with sedimentary, which it is also – PP is a VERY dusty city). Anyway, I am looking forward to this return to classical music. It should be a nice familiar territory for me.

Turning Into a Frog

2006-11-15T15:06:00.000+07:00

Linda said that I eat so much frog that I will turn into one. It's true. Not that I will turn into one (I hope), but that I eat a lot. It's actually really good. We go to this little place on the street with tiny stools and tables and eat these deep fried frogs. It's kind of strange actually, as I never imagined myself doing that. They're whole frogs, too. I guess I'm absorbing the culture now. I told her that we have fairy tales in which girls kiss frogs to make them turn into princes. She laughed and said it's different here, that boys who eat too many frogs turn into frogs. She's clever.

There's really not much to report. Work is the same, and I'm getting somewhat restless. Luckily I'll have some time off in December and January. I'm not sure what I want to do afterwards, if it'll be coming back to work at the hospital or exploring other options. I'd really like to get out into the countryside and the more rural provinces, but I'd have to be able to come back into the city. I'm a city boy who likes the country, I think is the best way to describe myself.

It's stopped raining here, and the nights are cooler. They're definitely not cold, but it's pleasant outside when there's a breeze. The days are still hot, though. I've really gotten used to my new house now. It's really close to Linda's house (one block away), so I see her almost every day. Her friend Sros has a car, so the three of us go out several times a week (often for frog).

My Khmer is coming along nicely. I'm hardly studying at all, but I think I've learned a lot, and only in about five weeks' time. If I studied more, I'm sure I would be even better, but I'm enjoying myself too much to spend all my time working or studying.

It's still fascinating to me how a city so busy with activity can have so many people doing absolutely nothing. For example, Linda doesn't do anything during the day except go to school, from about 3:30 to 5:30. I told her to come to the hospital and translate for me. I'd like to do some more patient interviews, and I think she'd be a great translator. She said maybe, but it looked like she might actually give it some consideration.